Homespun Earflap Hat with Pipsqueak Trim
So I made this hat for me, so it should fit an average adult
female’s head. To alter the pattern, add
more or less increases and rounds, or change the hook size. I did the rounds to just cover the tops of my
ears. Also I winged the entire thing and
the earflaps were made through multiple trial and error attempts.
Throughout, the starting chains do NOT count as
stitches. Work around them. This makes for an even, nearly invisible
seam.
Materials:
Lion Brand Homespun Yarn (size 5), less than 1 skein
Bernat Pipsqueak yarn in white (don’t know how much,
negligible quantity)
Size K (6.5mm) crochet hook
Round 1: Make magic ring, chain 2 to start, then 10 dc in
ring. Pull tight and join to first
dc. (10 dc)
Round 2: ch 2, then 2 dc in each st around. (20 dc)
Round 3: ch 2, 1 dc in first st, then *2 dc in next st, 1 dc
in next st* around. (30 dc)
Round 4: ch 2, 1 dc in first two sts, then *2 dc in next st,
1 dc in next 2 sts* around. (40 dc)
Round 5: ch 2, 1 dc in first SEVEN sts, then *2 dc in next
st, 1 dc in next SEVEN sts* around (45 dc)
Rounds 6-11: ch 2, 1 dc in each st around. (45 dc) Fasten
off at round 11, or continue for a taller hat if you have a bigger head.
Earflaps:
With hat held upside down and seam facing you, count 5
stitches on either side of the seam.
Place a stitch marker in the sixth stitch from the seam (the chain is
the seam here, so DO count the stitch that is next to the chain as a stitch). Count 9 stitches away from each stitch marker
(around to the front of the hat) and place a second (and fourth) marker in the
9th counted stitch. This will
be the width of the base of the earflaps.
I would try on the hat at this point and make sure the earflaps will
actually be over your ears and that it fits properly. Don’t worry about it being a bit short, that
will be fixed as the hat is completed.
(I use standing sc to attach rather than slip stitches.)
Row 1: 1 sc in each stitch for the stitch markers (include the
stitch markers – 9 sc total)
Row 2: 1 sc in each sc. (9 sc)
Row 3: 1 sc in first 3 sc, then sc2tog, then 1 sc in next 4
(8 sc)
Row 4: 1 sc in first 3 sc, then sc2tog, then 1 sc in last 3
sc (7sc)
Row 5: 1 sc in each sc. (7 sc)
Row 6: 1 sc in first 3 sc, then sc2tog, then 1 sc in last 2
sc (6 sc)
Row 7: 1 sc in first 2 sc, then sc2tog, then 1 sc in last 2
sc (5 sc)
Row 8: 1 sc in each sc (5 sc)
Row 9: 1 sc in first 2 sc, then sc2tog, then 1 sc in last sc
(4 sc)
Row 10: sc2tog twice (2 sc)
Row 11: sc2tog (1 sc) Fasten off.
Repeat Rows 1-11 for other earflap.
Finishing:
Using standing sc again, sc in the 10 stitches on the back
between the earflaps, and fasten off.
Attach to the earflaps using the ends.
This makes the neck a big longer and provides a bit more coverage.
Using yet another standing sc, begin sc in the approximate
location of the original seam. You are
going to sc all the way around the hat, so will be doing stitches in the sides
of stitches on the earflaps. I don’t
have a precise number because this varies between crocheters, so just do your
best to work this as evenly as possible to avoid buckling (too many stitches)
or warping (too few). This may take some
trial and error. Attach to the first
stitch and fasten off.
Trim:
Switch to the Pipsqueak yarn. Using standing sc, attach to first stitch of
previous round and sc in each stitch around, attaching to first stitch and
fasten off. Weave in all ends.
For ties, cut 6 strands of the Homespun yarn of equal
length. I did mine too short and haven’t
gotten around to redoing it. Mine were
16” strands, so definitely do the strands longer than that. Attach 3 of the strands to about where you
want the ties to be (I did it around the Pipsqueak trim, through one of the scs
on the finishing round). Ensure the
strands are evenly placed, then separate into chunks for braiding (so there
will be 2 strands per braid section if you’ve done it correctly, I don’t know
how to explain it), then braid tightly until you run out of space. Knot off and trim end so it is neat. Repeat for second earflap.
TIP: Lion Brand Homespun likes to fray. I will tie a knot in my ends as close to the
end as possible when I cut yarn before I weave ends to prevent the fraying –
fraying makes it almost impossible to neatly finish the project, so this
protects most of the strand of yarn. You
will have to cut the knot off when threading the yarn needle, but it makes it
much easier.